🔗 Share this article

When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying part of north London.

A Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the owners utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place earning such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.